The air rippled with the heat, the day enveloped us with an intense temperature that had our clothes adhered to our bodies with sweat glue. But Xixia Temple called to us and we arrived ready to seize the day. Many venders sat in tiny chairs close to the entrance marketing their incense and we chose a box that could be shared with all. 

An immediate sense of peace and calm surrounded us, and it felt like we needed to whisper and walk with gentleness as we started our journey. The incense we purchased was divided and we approached the candle lighting area where we were to make our prayers known and answered. My daughter and I had a challenging time attempting to light our incense and a sweet, kind hand reached out silently. I saw the most compassionate of eyes in this tiny, grandmotherly woman who obviously knew the sacred routine. She cupped our hands so the incense clumped together and flame immediately flared. She then took us to the centre and indicated our need to bow to the east, west, north and south sending our prayers out in all directions. I wasn’t sure if a hug was too forward, so I embraced her hands and gave a grateful smile.

The pathways were groomed but maintained their natural feel. Each turn shared another layer to the heart of the temple. The first statue was an elegant, regal female reaching out to us. My friend explained she symbolized compassion and kindness. Legend had it she had sacrificed herself for her village and her selfless act of surrender had been gifted with the joy of watching over her people for all time. “She reminds me of you,” my friend whispered. Far too generous a comment, I appreciated it all the same. 

Before entering the temples, each having its own purpose, we took our turns tossing coins on top of a massive, metal elephant. Another “guarantee” of good luck and prosperity, we were pleased with our success. After a few stumbles, we learned quickly to check our footing entering each building. All of them had a ledge to step over. The function was to ensure no evil spirits were able to enter. The statues were ornate, golden and massive! Some seemed to invite us in, others were quite frightening. Whether you wished for good crops, prosperity, forgiveness or happiness for the coming year, each statue had you covered. 

Next, we attempted to climb the mountain. The pathways progressively narrowed as we ascended. I tried to blame it on the air thinning as we climbed, but I knew my lack of fitness was at fault for my slowing pace. I was grateful when we paused to admire a view or stop at a tiny stand. Cucumbers were peeled and offered for two yuan. I welcomed the healthy, quenching snack. My daughter and friend snapped a few questionable looking photos as I devoured the whole cucumber. We all had a good laugh and continued on our way. The lush green, exquisite, gentle waterfalls and statues built into the walls of the mountain captured our attention and admiration. A sudden dizzy spell had me stumble and the secure hand of my daughter saved me from a massive tumble. Now to make our way down… 

Exhausted, but hearts full, we found our way to solid ground. A series of food stands including artistic spun sugar designs greeted us.  A pungent scent and deep, well loved cooking pot advertised 1000-year-old eggs. They swam in a boiling black bath of vinegar type fluid. No thank you!! However, we weren’t going to escape without giving it a try. I’m all for adventure, but when it came to the future health of my stomach, I firmly refused. My daughter stepped up and offered to “take one for the team!” My cautioning advice was ignored and she soon had the steaming “treat” grasped in a napkin. A few bites and the egg was consumed. “Not horrible,” was her comment. I hope she wouldn’t pay for her bravery later. Fortunately, she didn’t. 

We finished our day’s adventure. Whether it was the gentle, kind hand of an elderly soul, the joy of wonderful company, the spiritual atmosphere of the temple or beauty of breathtaking statues and natural scenery, I left with a feeling of peace in my heart. 

Good company in a journey makes the way seem shorter. — Izaak Walton

We clutched each other’s hands with excitement settling into the tall, upholstered seats. They were akin to the seating found on a long-distance bus. The bullet train surprised us with its spaciousness, but also the amazingly smooth ride. At over 300km an hour you’d imagine a scene from a sensational roller coaster, however we both found ourselves nodding off with the gentle rocking. Beijing arrived in a blink and we innocently exited with simple directions in hand. Friends, who had carefully prepared the map, had great confidence in our abilities to manoeuvre through this fascinating, exotic city of over twenty-one million.

Now off to the subway…no worries…

We like a challenge, so why not also travel during one of China’s biggest holidays of the year! Clasping our carry-ons, we’re not prepared for the literal overwhelming multitude all intent on arriving to their destinations in a timely manner. My daughter is in charge of interpreting our route. Her look of panic says it all! Ok, let’s make our way to the information booth. She efficiently points down and turns to assist the next customer. After a brief panic, we decide our guide must have meant down the escalator. We shuffle into the train, pop our luggage between our legs and squeeze as we clutch each other’s waist for stability. The line map lights up above us as each stop is reached. 3,2,1 and off! Even though it’s early spring, the temperature has reached 35 degrees Celsius . Carefully avoiding the countless scooters, many with babies tucked into the basket between the handle bars, we make our way to the Novotel Peace hotel. Pre-booked and pre-paid, the way to go. It took some sleuthing to figure out we needed to have our hotel key inserted into the wall in order for electricity to work but we’ve arrived! Exhaustion has claimed me, but my daughter is itching to check out the best street shopping in Beijing, Wangfujing Street. “Keep your phone on’” and I’m napping before she’s out the door. She arrives two hours later laden with bags. I chuckle “Pace yourself!”

After a “western” dinner of a clubhouse and fries (we want to ease into the cuisine) , it’s off to Wangfujing and the night entertainment. Charm and charisma transcend any language, and my daughter has made friends with all the sales clerks we encounter with her animated personality. Marvelling at our bargains, we continue on our adventure. The street goes on for hours and we encounter perfectly synchronized and impeccably dressed dancers, formidable statues, charming shops and street vendors. Both famished after our adventures, we can’t help being amused. The golden arches invite us in. Seriously, a McDonalds? We must, and except for some questionable miniature sausages tucked inside the burgers, the flavor is the same.

Day one complete, the hotel beds invite. An early day tomorrow journeying to The Great Wall.

Tom, our driver for the day arrives promptly at 8:00 am.  Hiring Tom proves to be a prudent choice. The Wall is a 1 ½ hour drive from Beijing and Tom is a pro. Imagine your most intense rush hour traffic, multiply that by ten, add an additional eight lanes, goods precariously balanced on top of ancient transport trucks, constant bumper to bumper driving, endless honking horns, and you’ve experienced the traffic of Beijing. Tom chuckles at our gasps and looks of terror on our faces. He assures us we’re safe, this is a daily occurrence for him. He constantly sips his green tea and his resourceful driving lands us at the entrance of the Great Wall just after 9:30. As we begin our ascent, Tom points to a distinctive sign and indicates he’ll meet us at the best dumpling restaurant. He settles in at an outdoor table, lights a cigarette and begins chatting with his driver friends.

I’ve always been grateful for my compassionate daughter, but today my appreciation increases tenfold. Her patience is admirable as I struggle with the incline. Offering her arm as a railing extension, we make it to the gondola. A ten-minute ride and the climb actually begins. Uneven stone steps narrow and challenge, but my daughter’s secure, comforting hand extends, letting me know I can do this. At one point a massive gust of wind captures my tent like dress and all climbers beneath me get a free show of my granny panties. Oh well, an amusing story for all…

The summit is within sight and the historic significance of this structure that was born over 2300 years ago and completed over 375 years ago leaves me speechless. Caressing the brick wall, I marvel at the stunning view. The infinite green and winding wall snakes it’s way beyond my sight. How could this magnificence have been created by humans and have weathered time. This wonder has earned its reputation. I’m  startled by a sudden, precipitous flow of tears. An overwhelming sense of my mother fills me with joy and melancholy. With knowing eyes, my daughter squeezes my shoulder. “Grandma would have loved this!” Taking in the brilliance of this highlight of our trip, we make our way down to our meeting place. Great Wall, you did not disappoint!